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打望世博新锐设计 解读北京前卫建筑

【导语】爱上一座城市会有各种各样的理由，而其中一点就是因为她独特的建筑理念以及风格，北京这座磅礴大气的城市，兼容并蓄着多种风情，在世博即将到来之前，我们应该把目光拉回来，好好看一看这座亲切城市的新锐建筑……

上海世博会中国馆建筑外观以“东方之冠”的构思主题

2010年世博会日本国家馆效果图

2010年上海世博会即将来临，“城市，让生活更美好”的主题成为热门网络搜索语。作为一次探讨新世纪人类城市生活的盛会，建筑首当其冲地成为重中之重， 为诸多世界著名建筑师及设计新锐提供了创意平台，力邀全世界的有智之士，展示对未来地球都市的前瞻设想。接着，我们让视角回到北京，早于2008年奥运会 掀起的建设热潮，以及随后被媒体炒出的“明星建筑师热”，为我们留下了数十座地标性建筑，它们正在渗透进这座都市的古老灵魂之中，改变着普通居民对城市环 境的认同感。

北京前卫建筑的非典型调查报告

放眼整个中国，很少有几个城市，能像北京这样对前卫建筑敞开如此宽大的胸襟。这些具有超前意识的建筑物，带着人类对生活状态的理想，以令人惊讶的速 度，在城市的肌理中生长。当然，它们本身良莠不齐，优质的足以给人及周边环境带来活力，糟糕的足以破坏城市原貌。可以说，北京的建筑景观最充分体现了这座 国际都市对世界上各类生活方式的包容能力。

与欧美国家的典型城市成长方式不同，中国的城市形态更加复杂，历史和现代在这里交融，我们从未将过去的生活彻底孤立，作为某种纪念物加 以陈列，贴上标签。无疑，国外建筑师将这个国度视为了尚未完全开垦的新乐土，他们怀着或崇高或功利的理想，投入这片土地，而他们创造的建筑，就是当代中国 的文化舶来品。在北京，我们有幸看到了像三里屯VILLAGE、MOMA社区、朝阳门外SOHO三期（由建筑界的当红炸子鸡、2004年普利兹克建筑设计 奖得主扎哈·哈迪德操刀方案）等叫人心动的大型作品。

因此，我们特意选出7例主要由国外建筑师设计的北京前卫建筑，从不一样的文化视角，观察它们对生活环境、人文氛围的作用力，希望能为未 来的城市生活方式提供点滴启示。

• 新央视大楼 (New CCTV Building)
  

建筑师：雷姆·库哈斯 (Rem Koolhaas)

CBD新地标 - 央视新大楼

自从中标方案公布后，屹立在北京CBD黄金区的新央视大楼就一直“风雨不断”，作为外国明星建筑师在北京开辟“东方淘金地”“试验田” 的典例，它饱受争议。如果你从这座庞然大物底下经过，看着与之一街之隔的挂着硕大售楼广告的烂尾楼，就会明白那种突兀之感。激进的奇特造型，似乎寓意了过 于膨胀的自信，或许，库哈斯有些高估周边城市环境的建设进度，以致这座建筑孤岛，在未来数十年内会给CBD区的生活方式带来怎样的改变，我们只能拭目以 待。耐人寻味的是，在库哈斯出版的一本名为《Content》的书中，暗示央视大楼的设计充满了生殖崇拜的思想，从特定角度看去，其主楼确实颇像一个正在 朝外趴着的女性臀部，可见，再先锋前卫的建筑，也逃避不了世俗文化的联想。

• 长城脚下的公社(Commune at the Great Wall)

建筑师：坂茂、隈研吾、古谷诚章、承孝相、张永和、崔恺、严迅奇、张志强等

长城脚下的公社 红房子 安东（中国）设计

长城脚下的公社 “竹屋”别墅 隈研吾（日本)设计

公社原本是社会主义国家苏联的一个野心勃勃的理想，设想所有人可以居住在一起，人人平等。但以传统的红五角星为LOGO图案的“长城脚下的公 社”却偷换了这种概念，环境被人为地封闭起来，没有了公开性，原本公共的自然风景变成了私人俱乐部，代表着现代都市人群对物质化的高品质生活的追求。这些 由12名亚洲杰出建筑师设计的当代建筑艺术的私人收藏，尽管在建筑理念上做出了很多大胆尝试，但在商业运作之下，却偏离了“公社”的原意。或许，从集体主 义到个人主义，我们生活方式的转变，也相应改变着我们对居住建筑的定义。

• 当代MOMA

建筑师：斯蒂芬·霍尔 (Steven Holl)

北京当代MOMA现代城

当代MOMA效果图

每当打车奔赴在北京二环路上，临近东直门前，总会看到不远处的当代MOMA，树干一样的塔楼伸向天空，巧夺天工的空中连廊横插其间，仿佛彼此拥 抱着、依偎着的手臂，让人觉得格外温馨。不论从技术上，还是从造型上，该“建筑奇迹”都充分表达了对未来城市生活的探索，毕竟，敢将“真正节能省地”作为 卖点的楼盘还真是凤毛麟角。MOMA独创的令室内恒温恒湿的调节系统堪称一大特色，同时，新的疑问却伴随而来。“走在恒温恒湿的建筑之间的透明连廊会所， 体验半空咖啡厅的奇妙时光，于横跨在两栋塔楼之间的空中游泳池里畅游”，尽管这些广告词为你勾勒出一幅极致生活的画面，但依据达尔文的环境适应论，长期习 惯如此舒适环境的人却可能最终丧失适应外界自然的能力。梦幻城堡的居民是否最后会变成笼中的金丝雀？这恐怕不是在危言耸听，如果再朝远一点设想，假定恒温 恒湿成为居住的必要条件，未来人的生活和博物馆中的历史文物相比又有何差异呢？——它们通常也是被恒温恒湿地呵护起来，供现代人观赏——如此过活，究竟算 不算更加美好？

• 中央美院美术馆

建筑师：矶崎新 (Arata Isozaki)

中央美院美术馆

中央美院美术馆的设计者为日本近代著名建筑大师矶崎新，有趣的是，他与时尚大师三宅一生还是邻居兼好友，在理念上大概多有相互启发。该建筑的突 出亮点是微微扭转的三维曲面，灵感仿佛来自服装设计，半实半虚，采用天然岩板的幕墙，本身就像极了一件抽象的前卫雕塑作品。知识分子，对未来建筑的看法是 千差万别的，而把建筑当做一件美术作品来筛选时，过程将会非常艰难，毕竟仁者见仁，智者见智，不论是提出“未建成建筑”理念的矶崎新，还是其他先锋建筑师 的方案最终脱颖而出，我们都不应感到意外。值得一提的是，中央美院美术馆的外形只能通过计算机生成，那一条条并非人脑足以构建、专属于数码时代的曲线充满 了神秘诱惑力。这种计算机造型技术，最早也被用于制作好莱坞的科幻电影，因此，是生活方式的变革刺激了技术，技术的革命又转而刺激了建筑空间的生成。

• 基督教海淀堂与第三极大厦

建筑师：GMP团队

基督教海淀堂与第三极大厦

德国GMP是全球排名第五的建筑事务所，在设计商业建筑方面游刃有余，注重理性结构，非常依赖于技术，符合德意志民族一贯的低调、严谨。与之相 反，中国人传承儒雅，自古以来，对建筑技术抱着一种近似于否定的态度，或许随着越来越多虔诚的人走进基督教海淀堂，我们真应当适度反思一下儒教文化对待技 术的不以为然。在人流、货流繁杂的中关村地区，素白的基督教堂为路人提供了一块极其宝贵的广场，在阳光明媚的下午，让时光变得缓慢；而与之相邻的素黑的第 三极大厦，却没有那么幸运，尽管被建筑师装备了诸多令普通人记不住名字的“高科技”，但由于经营不善，昔日最具前瞻视野的庞大书城终究无法逃过被迫搬迁的 厄运.

• 三里屯Village

建筑师：隈研吾 (Kengo Kuma)

三里屯Village地处夜生活繁华的三里屯闹市区，不刻意追逐外形上的花哨，符合形式简洁的现代主义建筑的美德：容易建造、投资低，达到了最简约、最理性的建筑效 果，正因为如此，隈研吾的设计方案才能和SOHO开发商一拍即合。但这样一种现代都市住宅的典范，是否一定能与中国人天生的传统生活理念相融？蜗居在 SOHO社区中从事着脑力劳动的白领阶层是否会经常感到生活无聊、按部就班？或许就像英国建筑理论家查尔斯·詹克斯在其著作《后现代建筑语言》中声称的那 样，1972年某月某日，随着美国圣路易几座公寓楼房被市政局判定为不适合居住而遭炸毁重建，宣告了现代建筑的死亡。那么，SOHO城的生活方式，作为一 种样板化的定制模式，在未来几十年后，也许也逃避不了被炸毁的命运。

• 清华大学美术馆与艺术博物馆

建筑师：马里奥·博塔 (Mario Botta)

该设计方案出自瑞士人马里奥·博塔，这位建筑师在中国公民中的普及度不及库哈斯，但其大有来头，因为他正是近代建筑宗师路易斯·康的衣钵传承 者，而康与勒·柯布西耶、密斯·凡·德罗、弗兰克·洛依德·赖特、瓦尔特·格罗皮乌斯（德国包豪斯学校的创办者）四人齐名，并列为20世纪建筑学最重要的 5位可以追根溯源的巨擘。显然，博塔从康那里学到了设计校园建筑的精髓，假若徜徉在这座美术馆及博物馆周围，你能感受到他欲让其作品与环境融为一体的耐 心。为了同中国传统文化的地方性相结合，博塔采取了全世界博物馆面临类似问题时的通用处理方法，选取了具有历史厚重感的砖作为一部分建筑材料，不仅与清华 校园的红砖环境相得益彰，还创造出宁静祥和的气氛，表达了一种与世无争、专注自我的心态。

Modern Architectural Wonders of Shanghai

Just as many of New York City’s most iconic landmarks rose in breathtakingly brief succession a century ago,  Shanghai has been growing faster than anywhere else in the World since the early 1990s, ever – at one point, a quarter of the world’s cranes were in use here. By contrast to the restrictions and limitations of European and American cities, Shanghai, with its seemingly boundless possibilities and the upcoming 2010 World Expo, has become something of a construction free-for-all, a playground for some of the most celebrated names in architecture. The result has been some of the world’s most ambitious building projects – from China’s next tallest building to brand-new futuristic cities.

• Jin Mao Tower: the world’s finest skyscraper since the Chrysler Building

Architecturally a blend of the monumental Art Deco of the Empire State and Chrysler Buildings and the balanced composition of the traditional Chinese architecture of tiered pagoda, the Jin Mao Tower renews the long-standing Shanghai tradition of blending Western and Chinese styles, resulting in a dynamic hybrid that beautifully compliments the Bund’s colonial-era façades across the Huangpu River.  Like the Petronas Towers in Malaysia, the building’s proportions revolve around the number 8, associated with prosperity in Chinese culture. The 88 floors are divided into 16 segments, each of which is 1/8th shorter than the 16-story base. The tower is built around an octagon-shaped concrete shear wall core surrounded by 8 exterior composite supercolumns and 8 exterior steel columns. Three sets of 8 two-story high outrigger trusses connect the columns to the core at six of the floors to provide additional support. The enormous barrel-vaulted atrium, lined with staircases arrayed in a spiral, is the city’s most spectacular interior.

Jin Mao Tower (Jinmao Dasha, Chinese: 金茂大厦)
Location: 88 Century Boulevard, Lujiazui Finance and Trade Zone, Pudong, Shanghai
Chinese Address: 上海市浦东新区世纪大道88号
Constructed: 1994 – 1998
Height: 420 m (1,390 ft)
Floors: 88
Use: Office, Hotel (Grand Hyatt), observation (88th floor), retail
Architect: Adrian Smith of  Skidmore, Owings & Merrill (SOM)

• Tomorrow Square

One of the city’s characteristic landmarks, thanks to the pincers on the roof.  The silvery futuristic skyscraper,  designed by the Atlanta-based architect, John Portman, is shaped like two squares on top of each other, with the upper on rotated at 45 degrees.

Tomorrow Square (Mingtian Guangchang, Chinese: 明天广场)
Location: 399 Nanjing Xilu, Western Side of People’s Square (Renmin Gongyuan), Huangpu District, Shanghai
Chinese Address: 上海市黄浦区南京西路399 号
Constructed: 1997-2003
Height: 286 m (938 ft)
Floors: 60
Use: Office, Hotel (JW Marriott), restaurant,apartments
Architect: John Portman & Associates

• Shanghai World Financial Center: China’s Tallest Building
  

The Shanghai World Financial Center isn’t just well known—it’s been making headlines for more than a decade. Its original 1993 design was halted after foundations were completed, just before the Asian financial crisis of the late 1990s. And the building also suffered a fire in August 2007, although damage was minimal. Named as the Best Tall Building in the World 2008 by the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat (CTBUH), the 492m-high Shanghai World Financial Center was designed by US super skyscraper specialist Kohn Pedersen Fox Associates.  The building’s most distinctive architectural feature is the aperture at the building’s top, which has a trapezoidal shape resembling a bottle opener. It was originally a circular shape (“moon gate”, a traditional element in Chinese gardens) but was changed after locals protested that the circular hole resembled the rising sun on the Japanese flag. The stunning all-glass 100th-floor observatory at the height of 470 m (1,542 ft.) is the world’s tallest observation deck.

World's highest observation deck inside the Shanghai World Financial Centre

Shanghai World Financial Center (Abbr.SWFC, Shanghai Huanqiu Jinrong Zhongxin, Chinese: 上海环球金融中心)
Location: 100 Century Boulevard, (Shiji Dadao), Pudong District, Shanghai
Chinese Address: 上海市浦东新区世纪大道100号
Constructed: 1997-2008
Height: 492 m (1,614 ft)
Floors: 101
Structure: Steel-framed and steel reinforced concrete
Cost: RMB 8.17 billion ( US $1.2 billion)
Use: Office, Hotel (Park Hyatt), museum, observation (94th, 97th and 100th floor), retail
Architect: William Pedersen of Kohn Pedersen Fox Associates (KPF)
Structural engineer: Leslie E. Robertson Associates RLLP (LERA)
Developer: Minoru Mori , Mori Building Co.
Website: www.swfc-observatory.com

• Shanghai Tower: China’s Next Tallest Building
  

Reaching for the sky, the spectacular design for the Shanghai Tower is a twisting, winding marvel of modern architecture. At 632 meters (2,073 ft), Shanghai Tower is said to rise 140 meters higher than neighboring Shanghai World Financial Center –currently the world’s highest observatory – securing its title as the tallest building in China. Shanghai Tower emphasizes sustainable design and innovative high-performance features. Organized in nine cylindrical sections, the segments are placed atop of one another, the tower has a double-skin facade that encloses the stacked buildings, while a triangular exterior layer creates the second skin, which rotates as it rises. The spaces between the two facades create nine atrium sky gardens. Shanghai Center Tower, slated to be completed in 2014, will be the second tallest building in the world surpassed only by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, which stands at 828 meters (2,717 feet).

Shanghai Tower (Shanghai Zhongxin Dasha, Chinese: 上海中心大厦)
Location: Yincheng Zhonglu, Pudong District, Shanghai
Chinese Address: 上海市浦东新区银城中路
Groundbreaking Date: November 29, 2008
Estimated Completion Date: 2014
Height: 632 m (2,073 ft)
Floors: 128
Cost: RMB 15 billion ( US $2.2 billion)
Use: Office, Hotel, observation, retail
Architect: Gensler, assistance from the Architectural Design and Research Institute of Tongji University
Structural engineer: Consentini Associates, Thornton Tomasetti

• Shanghai Oriental Arts Centre

The Shanghai Oriental Arts Centre is a magnificent, glass-faced, flower-shaped building that houses a concert hall, entrance hall, opera theatre, exhibition space and performance hall – they form the five petals of a butterfly orchid. It was designed by French architect Paul Andreu, who was  responsible for the National Center for the Performing Arts (aka “The Egg”, 2007) in Beijing. To strengthen the effect of something delicate and unearthly, lights on the roof change color with the cadences of the music being played inside.

Shanghai Oriental Arts Centre (Shanghai Dongfang Yishu Zhongxin, Chinese: 上海东方艺术中心)
Location: 425 Dingxiang Lu,Century Park, near Yingchun Lu, Metro Line 2 Science and Technology Museum Station, Pudong District, Shanghai
Chinese Address: 上海市浦东新区丁香路425号
Constructed: 2000-2004
Auditorium capacities:
Philarmonic Orchestra Hall: 1,979 seats
Lyric Theatre: 1,054 seats
Chamber Music Hall: 330 seats
Phone: 020-6854-1234
Architect: Paul Andreu Architecte associated with ADPi and ECADI
Website: www.shoac.com.cn

• Jiushi Corporation Headquarters

The glass facade of Norman Foster’s forty-story tower, in the South Bund area, curves elegantly to make the most of fantastic views across the Huangpu River. It is also one the most eco-friendly buildings in Shanghai.

Jiushi Corporation Headquarters (Jiu Shi Tower, Jiushi Dasha, Chinese: 久事大厦)
Location: 28 Zhongshan Nanlu, Huangpu District, Shanghai
Chinese Address: 上海市黄浦区中山南路28号
Constructed: 1995-2001
Height: 168 m (551 ft)
Floors: 40
Use: Office
Architect: Foster and Partners

• Oriental Pearl Tower: The Earliest Symbol of New China
  

Love it or hate it, the 468m-tall poured-concrete shocker of a tripod tower has become a symbol of Pudong and of Shanghai’s renaissance. Erected in 1995 and hailed as the tallest TV tower in Asia, the Oriental Pearl Tower features 11 differing sized spheres joined by three columns. The design is said to be based on a Tang dynasty poem that describes the tinkling of pearls on a jade plate: The silver and dark-red spheres represent the pearls, while the Huangpu River symbolized the jade plate. Still more fancifully, the architects liken the city’s Yangpu and Nanpu Bridges to “Chinese dragons frolicking with the pearls of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower.”  The tower is dazzling when illuminated at night and you can always join the queue for the stunning panoramas of Shanghai.

Oriental Pearl Tower (Dongfang Mingzhu Dianshita, Chinese: 东方明珠电视塔)
Location: 2 Lujiazui Lu, Huangpu District, Shanghai
Chinese Address: 上海市浦东新区陆家嘴路2号
Constructed: 1991-1995
Height: 468 m (1,535 ft)
Floors: 14
Construction Type: Concrete
Use: Communication, hotel, observation, restaurant
Architect: Jia Huan Cheng of Shanghai Modern Architectural Design Co. Ltd.

• Shanghai Grand Theatre: Shanghai’s Lincoln Center

The Shanghai Grand Theatre, designed by French architect Jean-Marie Charpentier who achieved worldwide fame with the construction of the Bastille Opera House in Paris, incorporates the sweeping eaves of Chinese tradition with a futuristic use of plastic and glass, looks like a crystal palace when lit at night as the white arc-shaped roof joins coherently with the light-sensitive glass curtain wall. Located in the northwest corner of People’s Square, it boasts three separate theaters: a 1,800-seat main theater for ballet, opera, and symphony; a 600-seat medium theater for chamber music; and a 200-seat small theater for drama and fashion shows.

Shanghai Grand Theatre (Shanghai Da Juyuan, Chinese: 上海大剧院)
Location: 300 Renmin Da Dao, People’s Square , Huangpu District, Shanghai
Chinese Address:上海市黄浦区人民大道300号
Completion Date: 1998
Transportation: Metro Line 1, 2 & 8 People’s Square Station
Architect: Jean-Marie Charpentier of Arte Charpentier et Associés
Website: www.shgtheatre.com

Related Articles:

Five Modern Architectural Wonders of New Beijing

Top Ten Shanghai Must-See Attractions

海归大熊猫“泰山”亮相 美国粉丝捧场

出生于美国华盛顿国家动物园的大熊猫“泰山”，结束了自2月5日回到中国后开始的隔离检疫生活，搬入新家与游客见面

海归大熊猫“泰山”的号召力果真是非同一般。昨日它结束为期一月的隔离检疫正式出关，竟然吸引了天南海北的“泰山”迷打着飞的来看它。当“泰山”在簇拥下出现，来自华盛顿的Panla噙着泪花感叹：“一点儿都没变，它还是那么冷静、那么可爱！”

“泰山”的新家位于中国保护大熊猫研究中心雅安碧峰峡基地内，它的别墅内面积约有30平方米，舍外活动场地约有1000平方米。目前，“泰山”已完全适应了家乡的气候、环境和食物，并与新的饲养员建立了感情，体重也已从刚回国时的87公斤长到了90公斤.

大熊猫“泰山”正在巡视自己的新家

“海归”听懂四川话

现年4岁半的“泰山”，于今年2月5日晚抵达中国保护大熊猫研究中心雅安碧峰峡基地，随即进入一个月的隔离检疫期。饲养员进出检疫馆必须穿上隔离 服，兽舍内外及清洁工具都会定期消毒，“泰山”吃剩的竹子定期清运焚烧，粪便堆积发酵处理，同时由专职兽医每天对其进行粪便、尿液的抽样检测，制订适合的 保健计划。

虽然是初来乍到，在美国集万千宠爱于一身的“泰山”在家乡也笼络起了人心。它的专职饲养员吴代福，每天都要花大量时间陪“泰山”聊天，每次喂食的时 候会轻轻抚摩“泰山”的额头、鼻子，并亲切地用四川话和“泰山”交流。他的爱心之举渐渐消除了“泰山”的陌生感和应激反应，如今它已经能适应家乡话，并在 他的指挥下站立和坐下，并能在无麻醉的状态下进行抽血、B超等常规的身体检查。

“它回家一周，就喜欢上家乡的竹子和特制的窝头，而且从不挑食。”据介绍，不管是白荚竹、水竹还是刺竹、丁丁竹，“泰山”都有非常好的胃口，到昨日，“泰山”保持着倍儿棒的身体，体重从刚回来时的87公斤，增加到了90公斤。

30多名粉丝前来祝福

30多名“泰山迷”昨日早早地就开始投入工作，为“泰山”清理圈舍、准备食物、栽种爱心竹园等。

18岁的Carlyn家住伦敦，是一名大学生。她说，“我想陪‘泰山’一段时间，我需要对它更多一些了解。”她计划在雅安碧峰峡待4个星期，要把“泰山”的消息带回英国，让更多的朋友知道。

来自美国的Panla Brawtnr是一名律师，为了见“泰山”一面，两天前才从华盛顿赶来，一天后就要离开。这是她第一次到雅安碧峰峡。她说，“我要拍很多‘泰山’的照片放在网上。”Panla Brawtnr到四川已有两天，因为工作的缘故，在见证“泰山”入住新居后，当天下午她就要离开四川回美国。她是自“泰山”出生后才搬到华盛 顿住的，因为华盛顿国家公园免费进入，她每周都会抽一两天时间去看“泰山”，四年如此，“泰山”的离开让她非常伤心。这次来看“泰山”，完全是自费，她在 航空公司累积的飞行公里帮她换来了免费的机票，“唯一不足的是，我必须先从华盛顿到加拿大，再辗转北京到成都。”算下来，她在飞机上的时间比在四川停留的 时间还长。“看着‘泰山’搬新家，我才会和它说再见！”

“泰山”已被四川汽车工业集团有限公司终身认养

“泰山”已被终身认养

一辆花车载着“泰山”从碧潭隔离区来到了5号别墅。进入新家，“泰山”昂起头张望四周，看见围观的人群，它发出轻轻的哼哼声，与大家打招呼。

“泰山”入住的5号别墅舍内面积约有30平方米，舍外活动场约1000平方米。据介绍，兽舍安装了摄像头，公众可以通过网络随时观看“泰山”在新家的生活。

专职饲养员吴代福介绍说，“泰山”回家1周左右就喜欢上了家乡的竹子和特制的窝头，而且不挑食。“泰山”已适应了四川话，还能在吴代福的指挥下站立和坐下，并能在无麻醉的状态下进行抽血、B超等常规的身体检查。

目前，“泰山”的体重从刚回来时的87公斤长到了90公斤，精神、食欲都很好。四川汽车工业集团有限公司现场宣布终身认养“泰山”。

更多可爱的大熊猫图片

US-born Panda Tai Shan makes public debut in China

The only giant panda born at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C. to survive beyond infancy, Tai Shan is out of quarantine in China and is now on public display.

Tai Shan, the 4 1/2-year-old panda born and raised at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., made his first public appearance at the Ya’an Bifeng Gorge Breeding Base in Sichuan province,  China, Tuesday, March 9, 2010. after being kept in quarantine for a month after his trip from Washington.

Tai Shan eats bamboo in his new digs at the Ya'an Bifeng Gorge Breeding Base in Sichuan province. Staff said Tai Shan was adjusting well to his new surroundings in his "motherland."

Tai Shan’s new home is  a 320-square-foot (30-square-meter) room attached to a large garden enclosure at the Ya’an Bifeng Gorge Breeding Base, where staff said Tai Shan was adjusting well to his new surrounding in his “motherland.”

Tai Shan and Mei Lan are loaded aboard a Federal Express 777 freighter leaving Washington Dulles International Airport on February 4, 2010.

Tai Shan and another American-born giant panda, 3-year-old Mei Lan from Zoo Atlanta, were flown to China from the U.S. on a  “FedEx Panda Express.” in February. Their parents were lent to U.S. zoos for conservation purposes. Under a deal between China and the U.S., any lent pandas or cubs produced must eventually return to China where they become part of a breeding program.

Breeders were wasting no time planning how Tai Shan could help propagate his endangered species.

“We will give him enough freedom to reproduce. As soon as he becomes mature enough … we will provide him different sex partners for him to choose. Of course now his is still too young for it,” said an executive at the center.

Giant pandas in captivity typically reach breeding age at around 5 or 6 years.

About 1,600 giant pandas live in the wild, and another 290 are in captive-breeding programs worldwide, mainly in China.

More Adorable Giant Panda (including Tai Shan) Photos

探秘“中国第一豪宅”汤臣一品的奢华

汤臣一品：中国第一豪宅

汤臣一品 汤臣海景花园坐落于上海浦东陆家嘴滨江大道旁，和黄浦江不过一路之隔，拥有无敌一线江景；离大型购物广场正大广场和地铁陆家嘴站只需步行5分 钟；四周被东方明珠塔、上海金茂大厦、上海环球金融中心、花旗集团大厦等高级写字楼和酒店簇拥，占地2万多平方米，总建筑面积达11.5万多平方米，由两幢40层和两幢44层的超豪华滨江住宅和1幢高级会所组成，整个项目于2005年全部建成投入使用。

2005年10月，均价11万/平方米的汤臣一品开盘后，一夜间创造了中国豪宅的最高天价，在2009年11月3日汤臣一品成交一套8号28层房源，这套面积597平方米的豪宅售价高达9609万元，均价高达160848元/平方米，创下上海甚至是内地住宅成交价新高。超过了2007年2月汤臣一品同一栋楼31层创下的上海公寓当时的最高房价纪录——142243元/平方米。

豪宅总是带着一定的神秘色彩，还有一些遥不可触的高高在上。但还是想让人前去一探究竟。可要参观这汤臣一品的样板房还真不是件简单的事，预约后还得审核你是不是够这个资格。为了满足大家的好奇心，现在就随我们前去一窥其样板房的庐山真面目吧，看看顶极豪宅是怎样装修的！

走近汤臣一品看似普通的建筑外墙，采用的却是日本三菱的高科技纳米技术，并单独为汤臣一品设计外墙颜色，注册为“汤臣Color”这一汤臣集团特有的颜 色。而屋顶的设计前前后后竟然修改了36次，从这些外立面细节来看，汤臣一品的品位已让人对其室内装饰的豪华程度好奇不已。

汤臣一品由两幢40层和两幢44层的超高楼组成，电梯能否运作，一切靠掌纹。室内采用多拉家常大金（DAKIN）VRVⅡ户式中央空调和美国碧慕 （BEAM）中央吸尘系统。保安系统也十分完善：美国Honeywell防盗主机，美国DORCON掌机仪，德国SIEDEL可视对讲系统，Lonbon 紧急对讲系统。看来富人们居住的地方，安全是首要的。

汤臣一品采用的是防弹铜门和防弹窗，在门上镌刻着经典的西方植物图案，同时各个细部还镶嵌有水晶，主人入室全凭指纹。

打开门，显现在眼前的即是一个金碧辉煌的世界，晶莹剔透的水晶吊灯、以金、黄为主色调的家具，夜色中的外滩……在镜中映照下，翻倍地呈现在眼前，这时候，我们除了感叹其奢华外，更是佩服设计师的独具匠心。

客厅与餐厅——最受成功人士欢迎的欧式设计风格，金光中透出的奢华。

厨房——选用顶极品牌，价值百万，人性化的定制设计。整体橱柜选用的是德国著名厨具品牌Poggen Pohl，整个厨房设计不但豪华美观，而且符合人体工程学设计，“储备区、存储区、清洗区、准备区、烹饪/烘烤区”五大功能区域有明显的划分。

整体橱柜选用的是德国著名厨具品牌Poggen Pohl

厨房家电选用的是世界最高档次的嵌入式厨房电器品牌Gaggenau，Gaggenau强调的是量体裁衣式的独特技术，其电器产品也以节约能源而受到富人们的欢迎。

阳台：汤臣一品的最大卖点，君临天下的优越感

走到阳台，才明白汤臣为何会狮子大开口要价16万/平方米，汤臣一品正坐落于黄浦江270度转角处，属浦东看江最佳的位置。在这个阳台上，你可以将全上海最繁华，最有价值的景色尽收眼底。在这里享用一份晚餐的感动与难忘，并不亚于在金茂。

如果说客厅是专为招待客人而设计，那书房就是专为主人自己设计的，以实用和舒适为主题。厚重的电视柜属于经典欧式古典设计，与近年来流行的矮柜设计相比，更加实用。此外，这间书房还兼有视听室的功能，后置音响需要在隐蔽工程时就布好线。

书房一侧沙发上的几个靠垫很是抢眼，混杂着泰式和欧式的风情，让人不仅想抱着手里揣摩一番。可别小看这些软装饰，略显浮夸生硬的古典风格，就需要这些软装来活跃气氛。

卧室沿袭了古典欧式一贯的金壁辉煌，所有的家具都描上了金边，与普通公寓卧室设计不同的是，汤臣采用落地窗取代了飘窗，无形间扩大了卧室的视野，显得更大气。

从儿童房，也就是次卧窗外望去，是上海最大的CBD——陆家嘴金融中心，次卧的设计相对较为简洁，没有繁复的饰物和雕花。

卫生间的设计并无太大新意，给人的感觉就像宾馆里的许多豪华套房一样，干湿分离的设计，进口大理石的墙地面和浴柜台面，依旧是个金而亮的空间。

浴室采用挪威Nexans地坪加热系统，下沉式的按摩池设计更是增添了几分贵族气势。意大利TEUCO超音波按摩浴缸和德国Hansgrohe、Pharo淋浴组。

Tomson Riviera:Maybe the Most Expensive Apartment Complex in China

Tomson Riviera, China's most exclusive residence, consists of four golden-hued towers in the heart of Pudong's Lijuazui CBD in Shanghai

Tomson Riviera, a luxury riverfront complex in the heart of Pudong’s Lujiazui financial district in Shanghai, consists of four golden-hued towers overlooking colonial buildings on the Bund across the Huangpu River and breathtaking views of the Oriental Pearl Tower, the Jinmao Tower and the Shanghai World Finance Centre.

Residents are greeted by sweeping views of the Huang Pu River and the colonial buildings on the Bund

Views of the Oriental Pearl Tower, the Jinmao Tower and the Shanghai World Finance Centre are breathtaking

The apartment complex’s entrance has original artworks by Salvador Dalí and well-known Chinese artists. The apartments, a few of which have been decorated by Armani and Fendi, as well as Versace, lease for $7,000 to $17,000 a month — to high-level executives from companies like General Motors.

Tomson’s prices are soaring.  A 6,458-square-foot (600-square-meters) apartment was sold recently for about $14.1 million (96.09 million yuan) or $2,189 a square foot (160,848 yuan), a new record for priciest home sold in China. The average luxury apartment in Manhattan sold for just under $1,900 a square foot in the fourth quarter of 2009. Indeed, for the price of a Tomson apartment in Shanghai, a buyer could easily purchase a 6,000-square-foot home in Los Angeles built by Frank Lloyd Wright and now for sale ($10.5 million), or a 52-acre site with a 22-room residence in New Canaan, Conn. ($24 million).

The spacious duplex comes with crocodile-skin bedposts, hand-carved bronze doors inlaid with Swarovski crystals — and a $45 million price tag.

The spacious duplex comes with crocodile-skin bedposts, hand-carved bronze doors inlaid with Swarovski crystals — and a $45 million price tag.   Big, pricey and luxurious… It is still on the market, see it yourself.

The luxury apartment complex features designs by Versace and bronze doors inlaid with Swarovski crystals.

1st floor – living room

2d floor

3rd floor – dining room

4th floor – cloakroom

5th floor – bedroom

6th floor – bathroom

7th floor – Shanghai World Financial Center and Jinmao Tower can be seen from the balcony

8th floor

中国房地产市场无惧泡沫风险

在上海金融区，豪华的滨江公寓正在火热销售中

上海 —— 宽敞的复式公寓配有鳄鱼皮床柱，纯手工打造的青铜门上镶嵌着施华洛世奇水晶——该公寓标价4500万美元。

该套公寓尚未售出，但在这金融区中心地带的超豪华滨江楼盘“汤臣一品”的项目开发商汤臣集团执行董事汤子嘉（Charles Tong）表示，他不难找到类似房价的购买者。

“我们每天能卖出三四套汤臣一品的公寓，”汤先生坐在一张白色的范思哲安乐椅上说，“现在，中国人都想要更奢华的房子，他们想要追求一种全新的生活方式。”

豪华公寓汤臣一品，融合范思哲时尚，外加镶嵌有施华洛世奇水晶的铜门

每个人都纷纷认为，中国正处于极度的房地产繁荣之中。但问题是，它是否正处于一个正迅速膨胀的房地产泡沫之中呢？

当近年来的其他一些“繁荣”纷纷破灭时——比如在美国——它们导致整个经济陷入萧条。中国一旦出现“泡沫”破灭，则可能会大范围地影响到整个世界。中国是目前世界上增长最快的经济大国，是迄今为止拉动整个世界走出经济衰退的主要动力。

中国政府显然对中国房地产现状深感忧虑。政府当局最近采取措施，意欲加强对信贷宽松的控制，其中包括严控第二房贷。而正是过去宽松的信贷政策促进了中国的超速发展。

中 国政府权威统计数据显示，去年中国房地产成交额达到创纪录的5600亿美元，比上年激增了80%。随着房价飞涨，房地产开发商们都争先恐后地建造更多的豪 宅、别墅以及高层公寓，并纷纷标上Rich Gate（富门，即“华府天地”）、Park Avenue（派克大道，即“静安豪景”及“静安枫景”）和Palais de Fortune（“财富公馆”）浅显易懂的外文名。

到 处是一派繁荣楼盛的景象。上海的一名投资者在一天内一气签约买下了54套公寓；去年中国一幢别墅卖出了3000万美元的高价；2009年12月某开发财团 出价35亿美元买下了广州的一块地皮，这一天价创全球历史最高记录。在中国北部的天津市，开发商们在一个天然水库上建造了一系列人工岛屿——形成一座价值 30亿美元的“漂浮城市”（floating city），上面设有别墅、购物中心、水上乐园以及他们说将是世界上最大的室内滑雪场。

“这太疯狂了，”前摩根士丹利经济学家、现为独立分析师的谢国忠（Andy Xie）说，“按所有常规指标（例如租金收益比）来衡量，中国房地产的确是一个泡沫。”

投机者正疯狂抢购房产，他们预期房交会将继续上涨，因为过去10多年来，中国房价每年都呈上涨趋势。实力雄厚的房地产开发商欲与地方地政府联手将老城改变为梦境城市。

但是，作为中国最富有也是最耀眼的城市，上海正处于房地产繁荣的中心。据房地产专家介绍，自2003年以来，上海房价已上涨了1.5倍多，目前上海一套典型的1100平方英尺公寓售价已高达20万美元，而上海市普通市民一年的收入不到5000美元。

购房狂潮席卷上海整个城市，造就了上海去年土地拍卖收入高达10亿美元，以及长长的待房名单。

“在这里，买房比买青菜出手还要快，”广告公司经理安迪·项（Andy Xiang）说。他刚刚付了一大笔定金，签约买下上海高档住宅区新天地售价高达130万美元的一套公寓。

汤臣一品

汤臣一品项目地处上海陆家嘴金融贸易区核心地段、黄浦江边第一线、正对外滩，与东方明珠、金茂大厦、环球金融中心等地标建筑并肩而立。汤臣一品的奢华是罕见的，它包括四幢俯瞰黄浦江的金色滨江高层及一个设计成龙形的中心花园组成。公寓高层的 入口处彰显着萨尔瓦多·达利（Salvador Dalí）及一些著名华人艺术家的原创杰作。其中一些公寓套房配设阿玛尼和芬迪家饰，以及范思哲风尚的家饰，租金为每月7000美元至17000美元，租 客都是通用汽车公司之类的跨国大公司高管。

那些购买汤臣一品公寓的都是顶级富豪，比如与众不同的上海企业家刘益谦（Liu Yiqian），据《福布斯》杂志的估计，其身价高达约5.4亿美元。

现年47岁的刘先生，最初在上海开出租车，但最终通过股市投资发了巨财。在本周接受采访时，他承认，他在上海拥有数百套公寓（他说他不记得到底有多少了），其中包括他在2008年以1150万美元的价格买下的一套6000平方英尺的汤臣一品公寓。

“我投资物业，”刘先生说，同时也收藏艺术品、古董和玉器。“我认为，五至七年后上海的房价会更高。”

中国中央政府及各地方政府试图对房地产市场加以调控，但他们的处境形如走钢丝。土地拍卖收入是政府收入的主要来源，去年总计高达2340亿美元，相当于中国6000亿美元经济刺激计划总额的三分之一强。

中 国是否处于房地产泡沫之中哪？这已成为公众争辩的热门话题。华盛顿彼得森国际经济研究所（Peterson Institute for International Economics）尼古拉斯·R·拉迪（Nicholas R. Lardy）等一些经济学家认为，中国房地产市场的繁荣，是受到规模巨大的城市化进程的推动，造就了高价住房的蔓延。

其他一些市场分析师则认为，中国房价高居不下的幕后推手是贪婪的房地产开发商，以及政府致使移居大城市的民众无法负担住房的相关政策。

汤臣一品项目开发商——汤臣集团执行董事汤子嘉（Charles Tong）

尽管市场担心中国房地产已成泡沫，汤子嘉先生认为汤臣一品的价格是合理的，尤其是因为中国有这么多深藏不露的隐身富豪。上市公司汤臣集团由汤子嘉家族控股。

“我有一个朋友，”他说。 “她生产孕妇服装。她的公司占有世界上20%的市场份额，而该公司还未是上市公司。”

汤臣一品的房价还在飞涨。最近售出的公寓每平方英尺达到2300美元。据美国纽约艾丽曼地产公司（Prudential Douglas Elliman real estate）的统计，2009年第四季度时，曼哈顿豪华公寓的平均成交价为每平方英尺不到1900美元。

事 实上，以上海汤臣一品公寓的价格，购房者可轻而易举地买下洛杉矶由美国著名建筑大师弗兰克·劳埃德·赖特（Frank Lloyd Wright）建造的6000平方英尺的名宅（现售1050万美元），或者康涅狄格州新迦南市占地52英亩有22间房的豪宅（市价2400万美元）。

但汤臣一品的一位销售代理认为，上海是世界未来的金融之都，而不像将成明日黄花的美国纽约。

“看看这座铜门，”王耀东说，“它市价5万美元！看看这些Gaggenau品牌的厨房电器设备。是德国制造的。”玻璃是从比利时进口的，按摩浴缸来自意大利。不用担心忘了房门钥匙，他说：“这个门锁可以识别你的手掌。”

Market Defies Fear of Real Estate Bubble in China

Luxury riverfront apartments are selling fast in the financial district of Shanghai

The spacious duplex comes with crocodile-skin bedposts, hand-carved bronze doors inlaid with Swarovski crystals — and a $45 million price tag.

It is still on the market, but Charles Tong, the developer of Tomson Riviera, a luxury riverfront complex in the heart of the financial district here, says he is having no trouble finding takers for similarly priced units.

Charles Tong, the developer of Tomson Riviera.

“We’re selling three to four apartments every month,” said Mr. Tong, seated in a white Versace easy chair. “Now, people here want something more luxurious; they’d like a new lifestyle.”

Everyone agrees China is in the middle of a spectacular real estate boom. The question is whether it is in the middle of a rapidly growing real estate bubble.

When other recent booms collapsed — in the United States, for instance — they depressed entire economies. In China’s case, a bursting bubble could affect much of the world. China is the fastest-growing large economy and, so far, a main engine pulling the world out of recession.

Beijing is clearly concerned. Authorities have recently moved to rein in the easy credit that has helped finance China’s hyperdevelopment, including making it more difficult for home buyers to take out a second mortgage.

Last year, a record $560 billion of residential property was sold in China, an increase of 80 percent from the year before, according to government statistics that are widely considered reliable. And with prices soaring, developers are scrambling to build more mansions, villas and high-rise apartments with names like Rich Gate, Park Avenue and Palais de Fortune.

Signs of exuberance are everywhere. An investor in Shanghai recently bought 54 apartments in a single day; a villa sold for $30 million last year; and in December a consortium of developers paid more than $3.5 billion for a huge tract of land in Guangzhou, one of the highest prices paid for any property, anywhere. In the city of Tianjin, in north China, developers have created a $3 billion “floating city,” a series of islands built on a natural reservoir, featuring villas, shopping malls, a water amusement park and what they say will be the world’s largest indoor ski resort.

“This is wild,” said Andy Xie, a former Morgan Stanley economist who is now an independent analyst. “By all the traditional measures, like rental yield, this is a bubble.”

Speculators are snapping up properties on the expectation that prices will continue to rise, as prices have nearly every year for more than a decade. And powerful developers are working with local governments to transform old cities into urban dreamscapes.

But Shanghai, China’s wealthiest and most dazzling city, is the epicenter of the boom. Prices here have risen more than 150 percent since 2003, pushing the price of a typical 1,100-square-foot apartment up to $200,000, according to real estate experts. (Shanghai residents typically earn less than $5,000 a year.)

A buying frenzy has gripped the city, leading to billion-dollar land auctions and long waiting lists.

“The speed you buy a house here is faster than you buy vegetables,” said Andy Xiang, an advertising executive who recently put down a large cash down payment to get the right to pay $1.3 million for an apartment in the city’s exclusive Xintiandi area.

Tomson Riviera, China's most exclusive residence

Few residences, though, are as upscale as Tomson Riviera, which consists of four golden-hued towers overlooking the Huangpu River, with a central garden mapped out in the shape of a dragon. The apartment complex’s entrance has original artworks by Salvador Dalí and well-known Chinese artists. The apartments, a few of which have been decorated by Armani and Fendi, as well as Versace, lease for $7,000 to $17,000 a month — to high-level executives from companies like General Motors.

Tomson Riviera, a luxury apartment complex that features designs by Versace and bronze doors inlaid with Swarovski crystals.

Those who buy an apartment here tend to be extremely wealthy, like Liu Yiqian, an eccentric Shanghai entrepreneur whom Forbes magazine says is worth about $540 million.

Mr. Liu, 47, got his start driving a taxicab in Shanghai but eventually made a fortune investing in the stock market. In an interview this week, he acknowledged owning hundreds of apartments in Shanghai (he said he could not remember exactly how many), including a 6,000-square-foot apartment in Tomson Riviera, which he bought in 2008 for about $11.5 million.

“I invest in properties,” Mr. Liu said, noting that he also collects art, antiques and jade. “I think in Shanghai in five to seven years the real estate prices will be even higher.”

As they try to modulate the market, local and central governments here are walking a thin line. Land sales were a major source of government revenue, raising about $234 billion last year, an amount equal to over a third of the cost of China’s half-trillion-dollar stimulus program.

Whether the country is in the middle of a bubble has become the subject of a debate. Some economists, like Nicholas R. Lardy at the Peterson Institute for International Economics in Washington, say the housing boom is being propelled by a huge urbanization push that is creating premium-priced houses.

Other analysts say prices are being propped up by greedy developers and government policies that are making housing increasingly unaffordable for the masses migrating to big cities.

Despite the fear of a bubble here, Mr. Tong said his prices were just right, particularly because of so much hidden wealth in China. The publicly listed company is controlled by his family.

“I have a friend,” he said. “She makes maternity clothes. Her company has 20 percent of the world’s market share, and they’re not even a listed company.”

Still, Tomson’s prices are soaring. The most recent apartment sold for about $2,300 a square foot. The average luxury apartment in Manhattan sold for just under $1,900 a square foot in the fourth quarter of 2009, according to Prudential Douglas Elliman real estate.

Indeed, for the price of a Tomson apartment in Shanghai, a buyer could easily purchase a 6,000-square-foot home in Los Angeles built by Frank Lloyd Wright and now for sale ($10.5 million), or a 52-acre site with a 22-room residence in New Canaan, Conn. ($24 million).

But a sales agent at Tomson Riviera says this is the future financial capital of the world, not the dying one.

“Look at this bronze door,” said Wang Yaodong. “That costs $50,000! Look at these Gaggenau appliances. They were made in Germany.” The glasses were imported from Belgium, the Jacuzzi from Italy. And don’t worry about losing your key, he said, “This lock can read the palm of your hand.”

跟着张爱玲游风情万种大上海

张爱玲（1921-1995）

她始终走在我的前面，带我去看她曾经居住的房子和街道，她说，她写出来的只是一点点，有许多没有言说的生命把缄默的灵魂留在了那里……或者冬天，或者春天，或者夏天和秋天，我愿意带一本张爱玲的书，在上海旅行。

女作家淳子用斑驳的文字描绘出一幅韶光隐现的“张爱玲地图”，传奇的生命被一处处与时光沉淀的场所优雅勾勒，让我们跟着淳子，沿着张爱玲地图寻访上海的前生今世。

溯源———康定东路87弄

上海是个讲来历论家底的世界，于是我们不能忽略康定东路87弄，87弄靠近苏州河与泰兴路，弄口一幢清末民初模样的红砖大房，是李鸿章给女儿的嫁妆，1920年，张爱玲出生在这里，1938年则成了她与后母打架后被父亲毒打囚禁的地方：

父亲把张爱玲关在一个屋子里，关她的屋子离马路很远，她曾经大喊大叫，疯了一般的大哭，想引起外面巡警的注意，然而枉然……终日里，张爱玲计算着逃跑。在一个月黑风高的晚上，张爱玲闪出了自家铁门，揣了一颗忐忑的心，坐上黄包车，逃去了母亲那里。她的那个旧家自此结束了。

这样的场面让人记起电影《滚滚红尘》中歇斯底里的林青霞，想象中的叛逃惊心动魄，究实质只是“少年时代一过，便被逐出了伊甸园”。如今，趁着那座老宅还未被拆，可以再去找找那个囚禁张爱玲/林青霞的有铁栅栏的窗口。康定东路挨着苏州河的那一段很庸碌，实在算不上什么时髦之地，沿着石门路往南走，倒是可以找到一条让本地影迷们趋之若鹜的小路———慈溪路，那里曾开着最热门的影碟店。想来张爱玲也是个洋派的电影迷，如若生活在今世，会否也光顾脏兮兮的慈溪路呢？

阳台外的市声

常德公寓旧称爱丁顿公寓，是张爱玲与姑姑相依为命生活时间最长的公寓，那里有张爱玲喜欢的能览市景的大阳台，“阳台外是全上海在天际云影日色里，底下电车当当来去”。

爱丁顿公寓出来没有几步路就是百乐门舞厅，深夜，张爱玲坐在家里，想要埋金埋沙般的读书的，百乐门舞厅的音乐偏是传了来。

据说张爱玲的姑姑是爱跳舞的，静安寺路(今南京西路)444号的仙乐舞厅(CIRO’S)是她姑姑与朋友经常光顾的地方。至于张爱玲呢？或许她喜欢远远看喧嚣，自己却不愿进得喧嚣吧。

张爱玲的时代，静安公园是公共租界工部局辟建的公墓，俗称外国坟山，……张爱玲每次经过静安寺坟场，心里总是慌，怕撞见鬼魂。

现在静安公园变成了集餐饮休闲于一体的开放式公园，园内的印度餐厅精致得很，地下还有个潮流服饰广场，这样的地方，有没有爱人相陪都让人放慢脚步，走着走着，可能踱进分处地铁两头口的季风书园或静安寺艺术书店，正好可以给“小资”精神补充点营养。

摩登霞飞

无论是上世纪30年代还是2003年，淮海路(旧称霞飞路)都是上海最摩登的地界。旧时的霞飞路被称作“巴黎的香榭丽舍”，满街的咖啡馆、西菜 馆、影院。张爱玲舅舅家就在霞飞路，她还曾和舅舅全家暂住过伟达饭店(位于今淮海中路993号，1996年被拆)，她喜欢与要好的三表姐一起逛霞飞路：

橱窗里，木头的美人斜睨着眼，斜戴着帽子，帽子上闲插了几支羽毛。天冷，张爱玲缩了脖子凑近看，嘴里的热气呵在橱窗的大玻璃上，化做一层轻薄的雾。买是不买的，只是一路看去。

曾经风雅的伟达饭店靠近陕西路与襄阳路，现今已不在了，代之是人声鼎沸的襄阳集贸市场，从襄阳市场出来，顺着淮海路向东走，一路边走边看，果然流光溢彩起来，路过缤纷的巴黎春天和百盛，在国泰电影院门口驻步，张爱玲经常与姑姑在这里看电影：

由国泰电影院向北走，又能寻到两处有张爱玲记忆的处所，先是深红色砖面的老锦江饭店，旧称“华懋公寓”，是犹太商人沙逊的产业，老上海人俗称 “十三层楼”，张爱玲也曾在这里住过，老锦江与新锦江的“高高在上”相比，它低调的风情更显深幽。而在它对面街角，则有古典雅致的兰馨剧场，张爱玲的话剧 《倾城之恋》就是在此排练的。兰馨华而不艳的门面像是给十字路口镶了小半圈奶油花边，这样一个街口，可以让人心渐渐暖静。

美丽园、德国乡村俱乐部

张爱玲所爱的男人就住在美丽园，那是一条与戏剧学院相隔仅一墙的弄堂：

弄堂里散发出一种大户人家规避的严谨。

……玲珑的阳台，八角型的大窗子，玉兰树过了楼顶，又繁茂开来，垂挂在窗前，好像等待了千年的情人，固执地不走。

戏剧学院的学生都曾熟悉这条弄堂，不过他们熟悉的不是让张爱玲心驰神往的爱情的味道，而是浓油赤酱的家常菜的味道，原来，这弄里原本开了个袖珍饭馆，名曰“五号”，在很长时间内补济着戏院学生的肠胃。如今，那“五号”与张爱玲的爱情故事一样烟消云散。

从戏剧学院延安路校门进去，很容易就能找到旧时的德国乡村俱乐部。那是德国人在1903年建造的一座小洋房，方方正正绕有构架严密、贵气的外 廊，却很少有本校学生知道它原本的来历，只知道这幢貌似严谨的方楼曾是校务办公之地以及借道具服装的部门，想到道具、服装，似乎这才稍有几分娱乐的意思， 但怎么也没想到，如此沉静的一座房子，曾经是集舞厅、餐厅、弹子房、滚球场、溜冰场为一体的俱乐部，更想不到这是张爱玲与爱人约会的场所。戏剧学院的学生 们约会定是沦落到校外的，最平常最简便的就是华山路校门口的真锅咖啡馆，当然，今天俊男靓女们灯红酒绿的场所也多的是，而德国乡村俱乐部昔日的浮华早已大 隐隐于美丽园了，绕着沉寂的方楼漫步，定能看见不少美女，权当娱乐，聊胜于无。

梅龙镇———重华新村

1947年以后，张爱玲与姑姑搬到重华新村里的公寓居住。从这条弄堂出来朝南走，几步就到了平安大戏院，平安戏院里曾有一个飞达咖啡馆名气很响，张爱玲在飞达吃香肠卷的美好时光是随着父爱的消逝一并埋没的。张爱玲在一则“美人计”刺杀故事的小说《色·戒》中描述：

从义利饼干行过街到平安戏院，全市惟一一个清洁的二轮电影院，……对面就是凯司令咖啡馆，然后西比利亚皮货店、绿夫人时装店……

由此可见旧上海的梅龙镇周遭就是繁华的商业区，看的、吃的、穿的都有，那一带旧时是静安寺路，以百货公司和服装店为主。现在你往梅龙镇那里一 走，更是繁华重地，重华新村对面是时尚的梅龙镇广场和气宇轩昂的中信泰富、恒隆广场，那里聚集的是世界顶极专卖铺，尤其是恒隆，楼内楼外简直是两个气场， 试想爱漂亮的张爱玲活在今世，面对弄堂对面豪光跋扈的恒隆，会否也抵不住诱惑，放下寂静的生活，飞奔出去做宝贝明星呢？

花样年华———圣玛利亚女中、圣约翰大学、兆丰公园

圣玛利亚女中是市三女中的前身，张爱玲念书时，校址在靠近兆丰公园(今中山公园)的长宁路，现在是东华大学分校。

一扭头，淡淡的太阳底下，一个童话里才有的教堂。层层叠叠的爬山虎把教堂包裹起来，成了一个襁褓中的婴儿。在那个教堂里，十六岁、十七岁、十八岁的张爱玲，曾经暗含泪水向上帝祷告。

现在的市三女中也是个美丽如画的天地，只是要逛进去有些难，校门口严格把关，上世纪90年代中期的时候，每天放学时校门对面一排外校男生翘首以待，皆是无计可入。

圣约翰大学也在兆丰公园邻近，张爱玲由于付不起学费，念了几个月就缀学了，但张爱玲晚些年在美国对“兆丰生涯”的回忆却不是寒酸的，相反美味得 很，她在《谈吃与画饼充饥》里提到兆丰公园对面有一家俄国面包房，那里做的十字面包“微妙可口”。如今中山公园对面是大型购物中心和地铁口，吃穿用一样不 少，只不过空气中的香味带了喧杂的气息。

张爱玲小档案：

张爱玲，中国现代作家，一九二一年生于上海，一九九五年死于美国洛杉矶。主要著作有《金锁记》，《倾城之恋》，《传奇》、《色，戒》、 《小团圆》散文集《流言》和长篇小说《半生缘》等。台湾皇冠出版社出版有《张爱玲全集》十六卷。此外盗版书无数。张爱玲不仅是口古井，还是紫禁城里头的出租龙袍戏服，花数元人民币租来拍个照，有些好看，有些不好看。她还是狐假虎威中的虎，藕断丝连中的藕，炼石补天中的石，群蚁附膻中的膻，闻鸡起舞中的鸡…… 文坛寂寞得恐怖，只出一位这样的女子。

Ten Unique and Unforgettable Shanghai Experiences

Everybody knows about the amazing sights and sounds one can encounter on a trip to Shanghai. But beyond the obvious attractions in Shanghai, there are plenty of other reasons why a visit to the Paris of the East should be on top of any traveler’s agenda. Here are the Top Ten less obvious charms of the Paris of the East.

The most glamorous way to get into town from Pudong is on the world's only commercial Maglev train in Seven Minutes.

• Maglev Train

It seems a little extravagant, but why not. This high tech fast train, which relies on magnetic levitation and is one of the first in the world, takes you on the 30km journey from downtown Shanghai to the Pudong Internationl airport in seven minutes. Yup, some would say it is almost too fast. But there is great fun to be had in watching the speedometer, which is handily and proudly installed at the front and back of each carriage. Within two minutes it was cruising at over 350/km/h and briefly ticked over 400km/h before having to slow down for that pesky thing called a station. It costs 50 yuan ($7) though discounted to 40 yuan ($6.00) if you are hold a same day boarding pass.

• Feel like a millionaire

Sitting on the 42nd floor of the Shanghai Hilton (250 Huashan Road, 021-6248-0000, www.hilton.com), enjoying a stunning view of the city some sumptuous snacks and brilliant Blues band it was easy to feel like you had made it. Think Gordon Gecko in ‘Wall Street’ or Ferris Bueller on his Day Off. It was all a temporary illusion but the impeccable service and non-exorbitant prices made it possible. Paying $6.00 for a Heineken at a dingy London pub? Annoying. Handing over 40 yuan ($6.00) for that same green bottle at the Shanghai Hilton? Priceless.

• Cheapest thrill rides in the world

Forget about Disneyland, Dream world, or even Rainbows End, if you fancy an instant adrenalin shot simply grab a taxi in Shanghai. Watch as your driver weaves in and out of densely packed lanes. Thrill as he cuts across six lanes, in the space of 30 meters, to make a particular exit. Marvel as he avoids scrapes and swipes by literally millimeters. Be amazed as just when you think there is no more room on the road, there is suddenly space. It is always very safe, and the only thing in danger is the driver’s insurance policy, but for much less than the price of a coffee in New York you get one hell of a jolt to the senses. Plus of course, delivery to your exact destination and in double quick time.

• Healthy times

Whether it is a weekend Yoga retreat , a three-step course in teeth whitening, or an incredible spa treatment, there can be a healthy bonus to your visit to the Paris of the East at not particularly Western prices.

Vue Bar - This sophisticated and intimate lounge in Hyatt on the Bund has amazing views of both the Bund and Pudong

• Loving the nightlife

Shanghai was one of the places to party way back in the 1930’s and it seemed to have regained its reputation. There is all number of clubs and bars, catering to foreigners, locals, or a mix. Names like ‘Not Me’, ‘Face’, ‘Judy’s Too’, ‘Glamour Bar’, ‘Vue Bar’, ‘Sin Lounge, Time Passage and Tango Bang hint at just what is available. There were plenty of places offering 100 Yuan all you can drink and some that even dished out free alcohol for the ladies.

• Weird and wonderful tourists

There is something about Shanghai that attracts the weird and the wonderful in terms of travelers. Two young ladies, of Australian and American descent respectively, seemed to be struggling in the immense metropolis. “It is so nice here not being able to eat” one remarked, presumably alluding to the fact that the food was so different and therefore intolerable. “Yeah, the slightly hefty friend concurred, “not having to eat is great. At home you have to eat five meals a day”. Later the subject switched to guidebooks, as our would be MENSA candidates discussed the merits of various ones. “You know, I would never buy a Lonely Planet again after all the shit I have been through with them” was the personal highlight for this writer.

Shanghai Pudong International Airport

• Get me out of here

Leaving Shanghai is particularly easy. Not that you will necessarily want to, but if visiting other parts of China is on your agenda then leaving is easy. Booking domestic flights is extremely simple and hassle free through a variety of websites or a plethora of travel agents, while air travel is cheap, plentiful and efficient. And you can even buy air insurance at the airport.

Ode to Xiao Long Bao(small steamed meat bun), Shanghai's Signature Dish

• Dine like a swine

Other parts of China will tend to poke fun at the Shanghai school of cuisine and it is valid that it tends to be a melting pot for all different types of style of Chinese food. But you would have to go a long way to find better dumplings than can be encountered on Yunnan Rd, a central city area that is called ‘food street’ by locals. These were sensational. When I eventually got to the front of what had been a 50 person queue – yes forget what you hear, the Chinese will assemble in orderly lines for important things like Sunday dumplings – they were sensational and more than more the wait. Slighty crispy on the outside, a combination of pork and vegetables on the inside and dripping with flavor.

A man riding his motorbike in pyjamas in Shanghai

• Snazzy Pyjamas

Shanghai is not so much the city that never sleeps as a place that never takes off its pyjamas. Imagine Saturday lunchtime with the usual bustle of activity – workers, shoppers, wanderers and a man riding his motorbike in pyjamas. And this was not your classic ‘getting caught at the letterbox in the dressing gown scenario’ – this was downtown Shanghai. It wasn’t a one off – the next day we saw another dude, perhaps in his forties, strolling the sidewalk in the latest bed wear fashion. The icing on the cake was standing beside a woman on a four lane highway, who was hailing a taxi in the clothing she had slept in.

Apparently over time the citizens of Shanghai have been used to living in very communal situations with a lot of people at close quarters. Then having been accustomed to seeing each other in their nightwear, the suburb then just becomes an extension of these accommodation arrangements. It is slightly different though, one would have thought, when your neighborhood is downtown Shanghai.

• Finding Zen

It was quite rare to see public display of anger in this city of 20 million people. Drivers duck in and out of lanes with barely a honk, never a v sign and all the usual transactions of daily life pass by with a distinct lack of visible aggravation. While it is difficult to debate the merits of this cultural necessity, it is interesting that you find it very hard to explode into anger yourself when no one else around you is, bringing a whole genuine calmness to the experience.

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