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Houhai - Back Lake - Shichahai  - Beijing    北京什刹海, 后海

Collectively referred to by most people as Houhai (Back Lake, Rear Lake), but officially known as Shichahai - the three joined
lakes of Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai. The most visitor-friendly neighborhood of Beijing, Hou Hai is surrounded by an expansive
and labyrinthine sprawl of age-old
hutongs (alleys). Historic courtyard residences rub shoulders with new yuppie bars and
cafes, while crumbling residences abut renovated multimillion dollar lake-view residences. These back alleys represent one of
the most satisfying parts of the city to explore on foot - or by bike or by rickshaw.
An interactive map of Beijing Houhai Lake Area
(Hutongs, Courtyard Houses, Top Sights, Bars, Restaurants and Lodgings)
Back Lake (Houhai) Hutong Stroll - Best Neighborhood Walk in
Beijing

Start: Huitong Ci (Subway Line 2 at Jishuitan, exit B).
Finish: Mei Lanfang Guju, west side of Qian Hai (Subway Line 2 at Jishuitan, exit C).
Time: 4 hours.
Best times: Any time between 9am and noon.
Worst times: Mondays, when some sites are closed. Weekends can also be crowded.
Back Lake Hutong Walking Tour Map

There is, quite simply, no finer place to walk in Beijing. The Back Lakes area (Shicha Hai) is
composed of three idyllic lakes -- Qian Hai (Front Lake), Hou Hai (Back Lake), and Xi Hai
(West Lake) -- and the tree-shaded neighborhoods that surround them. Combined with other
man-made pools to the south, these lakes were once part of a system used to transport
grain by barge from the Grand Canal to the Forbidden City. Prior to 1911, this was an
exclusive area, and only people with connections to the imperial family were permitted to
maintain houses here (a situation that seems destined to return). A profusion of bars and
cafes has sprung up around the lakes in recent years, providing ample opportunities to take
breaks from your walk.

Beyond the lakes, stretching out to the east and west is the city's best-maintained network of
hutong. Many families have lived in these lanes for generations, their insular communities a
last link to Old Beijing.

Begin at a park just outside the Jishui Tan subway station (exit B) along the south side of the
busy Second Ring Road at:

1. Huitong Ci (Huitong Temple, 汇通祠)

This ancestral hall cum Buddhist temple dates from the Ming, but little of antiquity remains.
The point of visiting is to climb to the top for a view of the road ahead. The nearest lake is Xi
Hai, followed by Hou Hai and the spires of the Bell Tower (to the left) and Drum Tower.

Retrace your steps, turn left as you exit the park, and then left again to follow Ban Qiao Tou
Tiao as it snakes around the side of Xi Hai. Cross busy Desheng Men Nei Dajie, and take the
next left turn to follow the north side of Hou Hai to:

2. Former Residence of Song Qing-ling (Song Qingling Guju,  宋庆龄故居)

Address: 46 Hou Hai Bei Yan,  Dongcheng District  
Opening hours: 9am to 4:30pm
Admission; RMB 20

This former imperial palace once famously housed Song Qing-ling (Soong Ching-ling) (1892-
1981), wife of Sun Yat-sen, modern China's founder. While her family became leading
supporters of the Guomindang (Nationalists), Song Qing-ling steered a more neutral course,
displaying some measure of sympathy for the Communists only after her husband's death in
1925. Mao later rewarded her with this house. China's last emperor, Henry Puyi, is said to
have been born on this site.

Turn left and continue southeast along Hou Hai Bei Yan to the:

3. Exercise Yard

On the right-hand side of the road, stretch your limbs and meet some locals. There's table
tennis on offer, and Beijing's hardiest swimmers take the plunge from here -- year-round!
Joining the swimmers is not recommended: There's a reason they wash themselves so
quickly when they get out. Just south of here is a picturesque former royal residence, Chun
Qinwang Fu.

Continue along the lakeshore, take the second left, and immediately turn right into Ya'er
Hutong. On your left is:

4. Guanghua Si (Guanghua Temple,  广化寺)

Address: 31 Yaer Hutong,Gulou Xi Dajie, Dongcheng District  

A Buddhist temple dating back to the Yuan dynasty (1279-1368), this complex originally
comprised over 20 buildings. Only a few of the buildings remain. In residence are at least 20
monks, many from southern China. China's last known eunuch, Sun Yaoting, was caretaker
of the temple for 2 decades, and died here in 1996. Admission is allowed on the 1st and 15th
days of the lunar month, when the temple is filled with locals praying for the success of their
latest business ventures.

At this point you can make an optional detour eastward to the:

5. Drum Tower (Gu Lou, 鼓楼) and Bell Tower (Zhong Lou, 钟楼)

Address: Dianmen Da Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区地安门大街
Opening hours: 9am to 5pm
Admission; RMB 20 for the Drum Tower; RMB 15 for the Bell Tower

The vaguely trapezoidal Drum Tower with its bright yellow tile roof is the most conspicuous
structure north of the old Imperial City. Climb up to the top floor for a great bird’s-eye view of
the surrounding hutongs and the urban sprawl beyond. The drumming performances are
held daily from 9 to 11:30am and 1:30 to 5 pm. Good views are also on offer at the striking
Bell Tower, which boasts a 63-ton bell that’s rung on important occasions like Chinese New
Year.

Walk south on Di'an Men Wai Dajie and take the first right onto Yandai Xie Jie, home to some
of Beijing's trendiest bars and cafes. Bear left until you reach:

6. Yinding Qiao (Silver Ingot Bridge, 银锭桥)

This white marble bridge, which marks the boundary between Hou Hai and Qian Hai, has
stood here for centuries, although the latest version is the work of modern masons (1984).
Standing on this bridge in the 18th century, the Qianlong emperor could see as far as the
Western Hills, and he deemed it one of the Eight Great Views of Beijing. Air quality has
dropped since, but there's plenty of entertainment below the bridge, where the rowboats of
romantically minded oarsmen bump bows.

Cross the bridge and turn right. Take the winding road along the southwest shore of Hou Hai
past a jumble of cafes, bars, and shops, and stop for a bite or a paddle :

Take a Break--Turn left before you cross the bridge, immediately on your left is an
impressive four-story structure. This is
Nuage, which delivers pricey but heavenly
Vietnamese cuisine amid delightful colonial ambience. If the weather is fine, aim for a seat on
the rooftop.

If you're not sufficiently rested, turn left as you exit and hire a rowboat or a "duck boat" (yazi
chuan) and go for a paddle around the lake for about ¥50 ($6) per hour. In winter, pull on a
pair of ice skates for only ¥20 ($2.50).
Cross the bridge and turn right. Continue northwest as the road leaves the lakeshore, taking
a sharp left turn at a wide intersection into Liuyin Jie. Keep to the left side and you'll soon
come to:

7. Prince Gong's Mansion (Gong Wang Fu, 恭王府)

Address: 14A Liuyin Jie, Dongcheng District
Opening hours: 8:30am to 4:30pm
PHone: 010-6616-8149
Admission; RMB 20, RMB60 for a guided tour with an opera performance.

This is the most lavish of the courtyard residences in the Back Lakes. Inside is one of the
city's most spectacular gardens, a combination of pavilions and rockeries perfectly arranged
to make it all seem larger than it really is. The 1777 mansion was occupied by Heshen, a
corrupt eunuch who was rumored to be the emperor Qianlong's lover. Later, it became the
home of Prince Gong, who negotiated on behalf of China at the end of the Second Opium
War. You're only seeing part of the picture -- the original complex, built by the corrupt
eunuch Heshen (said to have been Qianlong's lover), was even larger. More extravagant
buildings, built entirely from the rare nanmu (cedar), are housed in the National Arts
Research Institute (Zhongguo Yishu Yanjiuyuan) next door.

Turn left as you exit, continue past the touts to turn right at a T-junction. On your right, you'll
soon pass another prince's mansion, Qing Wang Fu. This spectacular residence is occupied
by the army, so there's no chance of admission. Cross Desheng Men Nei Dajie, and on your
right is:

8. Former residence of Mei Lanfang (Mei Lanfang Guju, Mei Lanfang Memorial
Museum, 梅兰芳纪念馆)

Address: 9 Huguosi Dajie, Dongcheng District
Opening hours: 9am to 4pm (Tues-Sun)
Phone: 010-6618-3598
Admission; RMB 10
Website:
www.meilanfang.com.cn

This is the superbly preserved courtyard residence of Beijing opera's most eminent star,
Most intriguing is the exhibition of postures and hand gestures that Meilanfang produced
while at the height of his powers in 1935. Specific postures and hand gestures used to
convey shyness, dozing, and mild surprise hint at the intricacies of the art form.

Winding Down--Turn left as you exit, and continue straight to rejoin the lakes at Qian Hai. On
your right is Lotus Lane, which sports Starbucks, Kosmo. We recommend you continue on to
Yinding Qiao to find
Hutong Pizza.
Houhai  at a Glance
Must-see Hutong (alley)
Yandai Xie Jie
   
Houhai Top Attractions
Prince Gong's Mansion
Mei Lanfang Guju
Lotus Lane
Silver Ingot Bridge
Drum Tower (Gulou)
Bell Tower (Zhonglou)
Song Qingling Guju
 
Bars and Teahouse
No Name Bar
Huxley's
Drum and Bell
Bed Tapas & Bar
Family Fu's Teahouse
Houhai No.5 Bar
   
Restaurants
Kongyiji Restaurant
Lijiacai
South Silk Road
Hutong Pizza
Nuage
Kaorouji
Café Sambal
Dali Courtyard
Jiumenxiaochi
Quanjude Roast Duck
   
Hotels and Hostels
Sleepy Inn
Qomolangma Hotel
Bamboo Garden Hotel
Drum Tower Youth Hostel
7 days inn
Jihouse Courtyard Hotel
Graceland Yard  Hotel
 
 
北京什刹海自助游攻略 -  后海自助旅游指南

什刹海概况
  
  具有悠久历史的什刹海,由西海、后海、前海组成,为一条自西北斜向东南的狭长水面。三湖一水相通,以后海水面最大。人
们常说的后海现在泛指什刹海的周边地区. 元代曾是南北大运河北段的起点,水域宽阔,王府环绕,园林密布,寺庙林立,景色优
美。位于市中心城区:西城区,毗邻北京城中轴线。水域面积33.6万平方米,与中南海水域一脉相连,是北京内城唯一一处具有开
阔水面的开放型景区,也是北京城内面积最大、风貌保存最完整的一片历史街区,在北京城规划建设史上占有独特的地位。自元代
起,此处便是元大都的漕运和商业中心。自元代起,此处便是元大都漕运和商业中心。明清时期,达官显贵、文人雅士竞居于此;
清入关后,皇帝亲领的“正黄旗”亦在此驻扎。1992年,什刹海地区经北京市人民政府常务会议命名为“历史文化旅游风景区”。2002
年,北京市出台的《北京旧城25 片历史文化保护区保护规划》将什刹海及其周边地区共146.7万平方米区域,列为25片历史文化保
护区之一。

  什刹海景区风光旖旎、景致独特,著名的《帝京景物略》中以“西湖春,秦淮夏,洞庭秋”赞美什刹海的风韵。近几年,什刹海景
区附近悄然兴起的酒吧及独具特色的四合院私家菜、四合院住宿,为这里增添了更多时尚元素。传统风情与时尚文化的结合,吸引
了众多中外游客,每年接待中外游客约500万人。在中国国家地理杂志社主办的“2005年中国最美的地方”活动评选中,什刹海地区以
“紧邻中南海的时尚”之誉,被评为中国最美的五大城区之一。

  什刹海景区每年举办一届什刹海文化旅游节。蜚声海内外的旅游产品“三轮车胡同游”及其升级产品“什刹海--老北京深度之旅”已
成北京旅游品牌。“游王府、逛老街、访古刹、观故居、登城楼、转胡同、尝家宴、泛轻舟、泡酒吧、住四合院”等旅游项目,为游客
提供了地道京味文化的体验。在迎接2008奥运会的日子里,什刹海作为体现北京“人文奥运”精神的重要窗口,承担起了新的历史使
命.

什刹海景观介绍

什刹海及其周边地区共有文物保护单位40余处,其中国家级文物保护单位3处,是北京市文化旅游资源最密集的区域之一。在众多名
胜里,尤其以曾是清朝巨贪 --和珅旧第的恭王府和被称为“京城水际观山第一处”的银锭桥最为有名。什刹海景区大量保存完好的胡同
院落、王府园林,展示着历史遗产的丰厚;庙宇堂馆、名人故居,显现着文化沉积的厚重;浓郁的民俗风情,使丰富的文物古迹、
完整的传统风貌和秀丽的自然风光和谐相融。


位于前海西街的恭王府花园,想当年曾是乾隆宠臣和坤的私宅,后由慈禧赐给了恭亲王亦忻并因此得名恭王府。

恭王府规模宏大,占地6万多平方米,府邸、花园两部分,拥有格式建筑群落30多处,布局讲究、气势非凡。其花园又名锦翠园,园
内设计、布局都具有较高的艺术水平。全园以“山”字形假山拱抱,三面堆土叠石为山,中路以房山石堆砌洞壑。立于山顶,居高临
下,更可观全园景观。

地址:北京市西城区柳荫街甲14号

  • 逛胡同,品北京风韵

胡同、四合院是旧北京城的象征。不管你是北京土著还是远方来客,都会被那份浓浓的京韵所吸引。

由前海西街郭沫若故居出发,顺前海北沿过银锭桥登鼓楼。然后再乘车过鸦儿胡同到银锭桥墩,一路上,提笼架鸟的老头儿,跳皮
筋的小姑娘,端碗炸酱面蹲在院门口边吃边聊天的小伙子,这种惬意的生活让人留连忘返。

逛胡同,不能不去金丝套,是指以银锭桥分界的前海北沿、后海前沿、柳荫街与前海西街之内的地区,有18条胡同蜿蜒曲折。沿途
蜿蜒的玉河水流淌着社会奔腾不止的变迁;特色各异的小桥又赋予你诗人般的遐想;古庙旧寺让你体会到生命的意义和对无知世界
的敬畏;王府花园记录了得意的自恃和落魄的无奈;幽深的胡同孕育了社会发展的勃勃生机。

  • 烟袋斜街

烟袋斜街东起地安门外大街,西至小石碑胡同与鸦儿胡同相连,为东北西南走向,全长232米。据清乾隆年间刊刻的《日下旧闻考》
一书记载,此街原名"鼓楼斜街",清末改称"烟袋斜街"。

据说,当时居住在北城的旗人,大都嗜好抽旱烟或水烟,烟叶装在烟袋中。由于烟袋的需求与日俱增,所以斜街上一户一户开起了
烟袋铺。这条街上的烟袋铺,大都是高台阶,门前竖一个木制大烟袋当幌子。黑色的烟袋杆儿,金色的烟袋锅儿,这样的标志真可
谓生动形象至极。在烟袋斜街的东口路北有一家"双盛泰"烟袋铺,门前竖着的木雕大烟袋,足有一人多高,粗如饭碗一般,金黄色的
烟袋锅上还系着条红绸穗,十分醒目。这"双盛泰"的大烟袋真称得上是北京同行业中的头号大烟袋了。
  
除此之外,烟袋斜街本身就宛如一只烟袋。细长的街道好似烟袋杆儿,东头入口像烟袋嘴儿,西头入口折向南边,通往银锭桥,看
上去活象烟袋锅儿。正是基于这两方面的原因,以"烟袋"命名斜街,真可谓名副其实了。
 

  • 登城楼,听历史钟声

始建于1272年的
北京钟鼓楼,七百余年一直矗立在北京城中轴线上。两楼一高一矮、一横一竖相映成趣,飞檐走阁、振翅欲与天公
试比高的雄韬伟略。钟鼓楼曾是元、明、清三代报时的中心,起着所谓“以时出治,声与政通”的作用,看到它仿佛听到了那萦绕在京
城上空的厚重钟声,让人震撼!

地址:北京市西城区地安门外大街北端

醇亲王府醇亲王府位于后海北岸,府邸分为正院、住院、花园及马圈四部分。另外在府后建有醇贤亲祠堂一所,占地共约八十余
亩。特别是府内的西花园有着相当悠久的历史。国家名誉主席宋庆龄先生故居就建在醇亲王府的西花园,她在这里工作、生活了18
年,给这座古色古香的园林留下了许多痕迹,增添了不少亮色。

康熙年间,明珠的府邸花园正是坐落于此。园中假山、竹林、小桥错落有致,南楼前临水有“明开夜合”树七株,其中两株二百余年前
的古木,据说是明珠长子纳兰性德亲手所植。年轻的纳兰性德常常邀集北京的文人名士相聚于此吟诗填词,今日立身树下,思古之
情油然而生,眼前仿佛人影依稀,耳畔边似回响着当年的唱吟之声,“阶前双叶合,枝叶敷华荣”。后来明珠获罪,这府花园又被和坤
所占,嘉庆即位后,花园和附近的府邸一起被赐予成亲王,并特许成亲王引后海水入园。现在我们看到的“恩波亭”就是成亲王时修建
的,平安石上“岁岁平安”四字便出自成亲王之手。光绪年间,这座府邸又赐给了“光绪”的生父醇亲王,其在成亲王府的基础上添改修
缮,建成醇亲王府。

地址:北京西城区后海北沿46号


梅兰芳先生一生中的最后10年是在什刹海西北隅护国寺街9号度过的,这是一座典型的北京四合院,占地716平方米。如今已成为人
们缅怀大师的观光景地。

这是一座两进的北京小四合院。共有房屋37间。现有馆藏文件3万余件。正院保存故居原貌,会客厅、书房、卧室和起居室内的各项
陈设均按梅兰芳生前生活原状陈列。

地址:北京西城区护国寺街9号

  •  郭沫若纪念馆
千竿胡同往北大约30来米,前海西街18号,这里便是一代文化名人郭沫若晚年居住过的地方。1963年秋天,郭沫若迁居此处,在什
刹海西畔这座古朴的北京四合院里走完了人生最后14个年头。

走进纪念馆,草地上,郭沫若的铜像安坐在藤萝架前,双手轻轻放在膝头、目光平静而坦然。驻足绿荫下,闹市里久违的鸟鸣声,
不绝于耳。

院内最为显眼的当数郭沫若夫妇亲手种植的银杏和牡丹,那些曾经与主人朝夕相处的一草一木,浸润在主人真诚与博大的情感世界
中。人垂花门进四合院,东西两厢已辟为陈列室,以图片和实物展示着诗人、学者兼战士不平凡的一生。正房的客厅、办公室、卧
室依旧是主人在世时的陈列。暖郎环绕小小的月季园,通向最北面的房间,正中的一间是郭沫若夫妇研磨书法的地方。伟人已去,
故园依旧。一卷卷书稿,一幅幅书法佳作,保留着他的神韵。

地址:北京市西城区前海西街18号

  •  广化寺

衣冠杂沓,车马骈阗的什刹海,历来是扎根皇城的佛教僧侣弘法结缘的首选之地。皆因梵刹林立,故名什刹海。什刹之一,饱经700
年沧桑的佛门古刹广化寺,坐落在鼓楼后西侧后海北岸的鸦儿胡同31号。广化寺坐北朝南,东临银锭桥,西傍宋庆龄故居,占地
1.38万平方米,拥有殿宇329间,分中、东、西三大院落。整座寺院建筑严谨,僧房毗连,形成院中有院的建筑特色。寺内古柏苍
翠,花草溢香,曲径通幽。

广化寺始建于元代,后经明清三次修建,清宣统元年(1909)曾在此筹建京师图书馆,鲁迅先生曾在此任职。1921年8月对外开
放。1982年北京佛教协会成立并将会址设在此寺。1986年,北京佛教协会在广化寺西路祖堂内肇建了北京佛教音乐团,弘扬中国传
统音乐文化,演奏“京音乐”即佛教音乐,并培养后继者。如 今,广化寺不仅是信徒们礼佛的地方,佛教音乐、礼佛仪式等也已作为
一种文化,成为什刹海民俗文化景区的重要组成部分。

  •  汇通祠
汇通祠也就是现在的郭守敬纪念馆,位于北京市西城区什刹海西海(积水谭)北沿的汇通河畔。元朝时期,这里水面辽阔,风景秀
丽,独特的地理位置使它成为元大都城内、京杭大运河最北码头,漕运船只可直达这里。汇通祠坐朝南,有山门一间,歇山调脊灰
筒瓦顶,石券门,棋盘木门两扇,前殿及东西配殿各三间,均为硬山调大脊灰筒瓦顶。后院有二层后罩楼,祠后原有一暗红色的巨
石一块,通体花纹如云,叩之如铜。巨石纹路中隐约似有一鸡一狮,人们俗称:“鸡狮石”。

1988年9月27日汇通祠竣工。占地1100平方米的汇通祠按原建筑形式恢复修建。内有石狮、石亭、剑碑,假山叠石,错落有致,曲
径路道,别具匠心,石壁洞岫,宛自天开。一座小岛重现人间,清水绕岛而过,随着湖水的流逝,仿佛又回到了久远而灿烂辉煌的
历史。

  • 泛轻舟,享惬意人生
夜幕降临,什刹海里还有不少游船,点点船火,阵阵琴声。什刹海的摇橹船是仿照“清明上河图”中的船形打造的,古色古香。游客在
北海公园北门对面荷花市场码头上船,由头戴斗笠、身着黄色短衣的船夫摇船,船上点起古老的马灯,船头怀抱丝竹乐器的小姐弹
拨出轻柔动听的民间乐曲。橹船穿过古老北京著名的景观“银锭桥”,游客饮茶小吃,同时观赏两岸丰富的人文景观和民俗生活景象。
最为精彩的是日落日升,船行什刹海后海,游人点起蜡烛纸河灯放入水中,灯浮水面沿船尾浮动,忽明忽暗灿烂一片。丝竹声中岸
上游人驻足观看,船上游客畅饮尽兴……


什刹海周边景点

1)景山公园  2)北海公园  3)故宫


什刹海周边美食(餐馆及小吃)

烤肉季 | 地瓜坊(地安门店) | 爆肚张 | 馄饨侯 | 谭家菜 | 厉家菜 | 梅府家宴 | 九门小吃 | 集天小吃 | 三元梅园 | 秋栗香 | 福瑞林西点 | 绿
豆糕 | 华天小吃 | 和顺府 | 茶花妹子过桥米线 | 茶马古道| |
全聚德烤鸭店 | 孔乙己酒楼 | 南门涮肉| 日昌港式茶餐厅| 胡同匹萨 | 西湖
船菜 | 庆丰包子铺 |
庆云楼 | 京味面大王 | 御膳饭庄 |  鸿宾楼 | 砂锅居 |

 ★   烤肉季         人均消费:70—100元       地址:北京市西城区前海东沿14号
 ★ 爆肚张         人均消费:25—30元         地址:西城区什刹海前海东沿17号(烤肉季往东)
 ★ 馄饨侯         人均消费:15—20元         地址:东城区鼓楼东大街309号
 ★ 谭家菜         人均消费:600元以上       地址:北京市西城区护国寺街10号
 ★ 厉家菜         人均消费:400—500元     地址:西城区德胜门内大街羊房胡同11号
 ★ 梅府家宴      人均消费:300—500元     地址:西城区大翔凤胡同24号


什刹海周边酒吧

无名吧 | 兰花坊 | 后海夜色  | Lazy Bar  | 百龄坛俱乐部  | 朝酒晚舞  | 德彼酒吧 | 钟鼓咖啡馆 | 床吧 | 滴水藏海  | 后海五号酒吧


什刹海周边 购物
  
韵泓工艺 | 华普超市 | 烟袋斜街 | 天意市场 | 张一元茶庄 | 三石斋风筝


什刹海周边住宿          

*什刹海国际公寓  .*北京丽舍什刹海国际青年酒店  * 后海(大华卫)怡景酒店  * 齐鲁饭店  * 西海饭店  *金台饭店 *红墙饭店 *鑫园宾馆


什刹海景区提示

电        话:010-66127652
门        票:免费
地        址:北京市西城区德内大街羊坊胡同甲23号
交通路线:乘5路公交车地安门下车,或111、118、13等路公交车北海北门下即到。